Exploring the Central Exuma Cays


On March 21, we departed Big Major Cay with the Star Fleet and headed southeast towards Black Point on Great Guana Cay. It was a fun and short sail in 20 knot wind, mostly on a broad-reach. We averaged 6.3 knots over 8.5 nautical miles, with only the jib raised. We anchored in the harbor at Black Point, which provides great protection from easterly wind and easy access to Government Pier. A few steps from the pier is a dumpster for disposing of trash at no charge and a free RO water spigot. These services can be difficult to find in the Bahamas, and are rarely free.


Black Point Harbor

The businesses in Black Point warmly cater to cruisers (salty sailors mostly, since the harbor is too compact and shallow for large yachts). We knocked out a mound of laundry at Rockside Laundromat, which boasts the best view of any laundromat in the world. Next-door to the laundromat is the popular Lorraine’s Cafe. A “Fresh Bread” sign posted in front of the cafe points to a house directly behind it. The house belongs to Lorraine’s mother, who bakes and sells loaves of Bahamian bread (both plain and coconut) in her kitchen.



After completing some chores, we hiked up a hill on the northeast side of Black Point with the Star Fleet. From the hilltop, we watched waves from the Exuma Sound pound the rugged shoreline and gush through a blowhole. Then our group made its way to the waterfront restaurant Emerald Sunset View for refreshing Kalik lagers (produced by Commonwealth Brewery in Nassau). The evening before we departed Black Point, Mike pole-speared a hefty Schoolmaster snapper on a reef just outside the harbor.


A cold Kalik enjoyed at a waterfront restaurant in Black Point


Mike with a schoolmaster snapper he pole-speared in Black Point


On March 24, we sailed 9.8 nautical miles from Black Point to Sampson Cay, which is just northwest of Staniel Cay. We made good time sailing on a broad- and beam-reach in 20 knot wind. At 12:45PM, we anchored in front of the gated retreat on Sampson Cay. The island is owned by John Malone, a billionaire telecommunications magnate and the largest private landowner in the U.S. We immediately set out on a spectacular dinghy ride through Pipe Creek, which runs between Pipe Cay and Little Pipe Cay. Due to scattered sand flats that are exposed at low tide, we opted to anchor Traveller outside Pipe Creek and check it out by dinghy. When the current picked up in Pipe Creek, we jumped into the water with our snorkel gear and took turns towing the dinghy as we drifted over coral reefs teeming with fish. 


A parrotfish munching on coral in Pipe Creek

On March 25, we departed Sampson Cay and headed northwest. Traveller is not equipped with a whisker pole or preventer and the wind was dead behind us, so we motored. A whisker pole “wings out” the jib so it doesn’t flop around when sailing downwind, and a preventer secures the boom so it doesn’t swing across the cockpit if the wind catches the leeward side of the mainsail when sailing downwind (a potentially dangerous occurrence referred to as an “accidental jibe”). 13 nautical miles from our starting point, we anchored off Big Bell Island. Although it is within the southernmost parameters of the Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park (“ECLSP”), Big Bell Island is privately owned. It was purchased by a shell company for $100 million in 2009, coming under the control of the Aga Khan (the hereditary Imam, or spiritual leader, of Shia Ismaili Muslims). Nearby Conch Cut, which is also within the ECLSP, was dredged in 2010 to accommodate the Aga Khan's 164 ft yacht. Beaches on privately owned islands in the Bahamas are publicly accessible up to the highwater mark. Upon confirming this point, we strolled along the surf at Big Bell Island under the watchful eye of the Aga Khan’s staff. We also went on a short dinghy ride from Big Bell Island to the ECLSP Sea Aquarium on the northwest side of O'Brien's Cay. After tying the dinghy to a mooring ball in the Sea Aquarium, we jumped into the water and swam among an abundance of reef fish, including: honeycomb cowfish, angelfish, parrotfish, blue tangs, and "sailors' choice'' grunt. Luckily for the grunts, Mike did not have his pole-spear because fishing is strictly prohibited in the ECLSP. Following dinner that evening, we joined the Star Fleet aboard MV Our Eden (a.k.a. the “Mothership”) to share a delicious coconut rum cake prepared by Radeen of SV Island Spirit. 


The Sea Aquarium off O'Brien's Cay 

On March 26, we motor-sailed 15 nautical miles northwest to the North Mooring Field at Warderick Wells, where the ECLSP headquarters is located. Mooring balls at Warderick Wells are typically assigned on a first-come-first basis, but we were able to reserve one in advance because we purchased a one-year “support fleet membership” for $60. It costs $30/night for a mooring ball reservation at Warderick Wells and we got two complimentary nights with the membership, so it was clearly a good investment.


Traveller on mooring ball at Warderick Wells

The best word I can use to describe Warderick Wells is “magical.” We spent most of our four days there exploring secluded beaches and pristine coral reefs. Our most exciting underwater encounter was with a fever of spotted eagle rays. The rays appeared rather sinister flapping massive pectoral fins and casting ominous shadows on the seafloor as they glided by. It was also a lot of fun to chase after easygoing sea turtles and watch Nassau groupers come out of hiding to hunt. Mike’s heart broke a little when we came across a 3-ft-long lobster. Like fishing, lobstering is strictly prohibited throughout the ECLSP.


Fever of spotted eagle rays at Warderick Wells


Sea turtle catching its breath at Warderick Wells

The hutia, which looks like a rabbit-rat crossbreed, is the only terrestrial mammal native to the Bahamas. As part of a conservation effort in 1973, the then endangered hutia was introduced to Warderick Wells. Without any predators on the island, the hutia population is thriving. They have eaten away the upper layers of vegetation canopy across the entire island. To kill time before slack tide (i.e., snorkeling prime time) one afternoon, we hiked to the top of Hutia Hill. We probably should have waited until the UV index dropped below 11 to climb jagged limestone to a hilltop honoring the resident rodent. Aside from sweat and melted sunscreen burning our eyes, we enjoyed the hike. It was interesting to get a close look at vegetation (mostly mangroves and epiphytic orchids and bromeliads) flourishing in such harsh conditions. Plus, views of the Exuma Sound and Exuma Bank from Hutia Hill were breathtaking.


Mike on the Hutia Hill Trail at Warderick Wells

Hutia emerges from hiding at nightfall


We also hiked to the top of Boo Boo Hill, the highest point in Warderick Wells, just before sunset one evening. Legend has it that Boo Boo Hill is haunted by the crew of a missionary ship that vanished along the rocky shoreline below one stormy night. Mariners leave pieces of driftwood inscribed with the names of their vessels in a giant heap at the top of the hill. The gesture is meant to be an offering to the sea gods for safe passage. It is not clear to us what Poseidon has in store for a sailor whose driftwood talisman flies off Boo Boo Hill and crashes into the ocean during a hurricane, so we did not participate in the risky ritual. As we scrambled down Boo Boo Hill to escape the no-see-ums detracting from an otherwise picturesque sunset, we caught a glimpse of hutia emerging from mangroves.

Driftwood signs on top of Boo Boo Hill

Rocky shoreline on NE side of Warderick Wells, as seen from Boo Boo Hill Trail

The Star Fleet spent a relaxing afternoon hanging out with its newest members, Jeff and Sharon of SV Lucille (IP 420), at Powerful Beach on Warderick Wells. We kept the party going with a potluck on Lucille that evening. The Park Manager and Deputy Park Warden even stopped by after completing their evening rounds. Sadly, our fleet started to disband the next day. Luckily, we got some bonus time with Hayden and Radeen of SV Island Spirit after our other buddy boats left. We meet up for lasagna and drinks aboard Island Spirit one night, and burritos and drinks aboard Traveller the next.


Skeleton of a 52' sperm whale that died from ingesting a plastic bag on display at Warderick Wells

The Star Fleet's last hurrah on Lucille (missing Sea Lyon & Our Eden)


Yesterday, we motor-sailed back to Black Point in light wind. Steady winds over 20 knots with gusts approaching 30 started last evening, and are predicted to calm down tomorrow morning. This is a well protected and convenient location for us to wait out the blow before proceeding south. The first order of business after we anchored was to dispose of trash and fill water jugs ashore. Then Mike took off in the dinghy with his pole-spear. He was fired up and hungry after a week of snorkeling with big fish and lobsters in the ECLSP's protected waters. Less than 30 minutes later, he returned with a Nassau grouper and a grunt. Today (March 31) is the last day of lobster season in the Bahamas, so you can guess what our mission is for this afternoon. We plan to head into the southern Exumas this weekend. This will be our first time cruising to a new region of the Bahamas without a buddy boat. We want to stop at Little Farmer's Cay and Georgetown, and may push further south to the remote Ragged Island Chain. We will miss our Star Fleet comrades, but are excited for the next chapter of our cruising adventure!


Comments

  1. OUTSTANDING, descriptive colorful writing that is a real JOY to read. Thank you so much! Great job!!!!! I really enjoy your blog.

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  2. Excellent entry. I will follow you to learn great tips like how to get a ball at WW. Sadly our time in the Bahamas is up, so we are crossing to Florida on Monday night from the Berry's.

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