Bahamas Bound

We are thrilled to report that we will be on our way to the Bahamas tomorrow! Traveller was parked in Port Salerno, Florida for 7 weeks while Mack Yacht Services replaced all 8 chainplates (3 on each side and 2 on the stern). For inquiring minds, chainplates are thick stainless steel bars that are fiberglassed into the hull and provide an attachment point to anchor steel cables that support the mast. Mack Yacht Services dismantled all of the cabinetry, taped protective plastic sheets over interior surfaces, ground through fiberglass to pull out the old plates, secured the new plates with fiberglass strands epoxied to the hull, and reassembled the cabinetry. After all of that, the crew thoroughly cleaned the deck and interior to get rid of fiberglass dust. Mack Yacht Services also completed smaller projects while Traveller was at the boatyard: patching a fiberglass puncture spot, replacing a frayed jib halyard (the rope that raises up the jib sail), and replacing a few old hoses. 

Traveller prepped for the chainplate job

Being displaced from our floating home wasn't all bad. We spent a lot of time with Mike's Grandma Jayne, Mom, Aunt Liz, and Uncle Joe at Jayne's beautiful home in Palm City. We joined Mike's Dad and siblings on a week-long vacation in Islamorada, topped off with a parasailing expedition in Key West. We eloped in St. Petersburg, and then took a quick trip to Maryland to tell family the news in person. Amidst these adventures, we had plenty of time to agonize over a provisioning list and acquire 3 months' worth of nonperishable food, alcohol, and supplies.

The captain & first mate sneaking off to get hitched

On February 22, we moved back aboard. Traveller was spotless and empty. This was a new experience for us, since she was in need of cleaning and full of dusty items left by prior owners when we bought her. We spent a couple of days loading and organizing provisions, tools, boat parts, and personal effects at the boatyard before relocating to a nearby anchorage in Manatee Pocket.

Mike re-acclimating to the cruiser lifestyle

We set out for Miami on February 26. Conditions were ideal for a smooth overnight passage offshore - light northerly wind and calm seas (2 ft waves every 8 seconds). We lifted anchor at 10:30AM and motored through the St. Lucie Inlet 50 minutes later. After passing the Jupiter Inlet at 2:15PM, we shut off the engine and sailed until sunset, averaging 3-3.5 knots with the current giving us an extra knot of speed over ground. At sunrise, we transited the Government Cut Inlet behind several cruise ships on their way to PortMiami (the largest passenger port in the world). Then we turned southbound on the ICW, proceeded 6 nautical miles to Virginia Key, and anchored at the Marine Stadium at 8:00AM. After long naps, we toasted to the completion of our first overnight passage as we admired the Miami skyline and eyed the Marine Stadium. Now abandoned and covered in graffiti, the stadium was constructed in 1963 to accommodate powerboat racing audiences of up to 6,566. The last water sporting event at the stadium occurred in 1990. It was condemned in 1992 after sustaining damage during Hurricane Andrew.

View of the city lights from the Marine Stadium anchorage

Miami Marine Stadium

The next morning, we headed northbound on the ICW to find a less crowded anchorage with better access to shopping and the beach. After crossing through a railway bridge and under two causeway bridges, we exited the channel and anchored in Miami Beach at Flagler Memorial Island (an uninhabited artificial island with a 110 ft monument to Henry Flagler). We remained anchored north of the island for 5 nights, adequately protected from strong southerly wind. It was easy to traverse Miami Beach on the dinghy via the Collins Canal, which was constructed by John Collins in 1912 to transport avocados and mangoes from his farm to Biscayne Bay. After tying the dinghy to a free dock in the canal, we carried out several errands on foot, strolled through the Art Deco Historic District in South Beach, and walked to the ocean.

Miami Beach

During our stay in Miami Beach, we socialized and strategized with other mariners preparing to cross to the Bahamas. The leaders of our pack are Hayden and Radeen of SV Island Spirit (Island Packet 35), kind and enthusiastic mentors who guided us through the process of purchasing Traveller and regularly advise us on all aspects of cruising. We all went to a free showing of The Woman King at Soundscape Park one evening, and celebrated Radeen's birthday with cake and drinks aboard SV Our Eden (Fleming 55) another. After discussing weather forecasts from multiple sources, the group decided that we will depart from Key Biscayne in Miami tomorrow and proceed overnight to Great Harbour Cay in the Bahamas. There will be calm seas and light wind with no northerly component (this is good because wind from the north opposes the Gulf Stream, causing choppy conditions). Additionally, the March full moon will rise tomorrow evening and greatly enhance overnight visibility. We reserved a slip at a marina on the east side of Great Harbour Cay for a few nights to ensure that we are protected from strong westerly winds forecast for this weekend. The few anchorages in the Berrys and Exumas that offer such protection are likely packed already. We are grateful we will have a safe place to wait out the weekend before pushing onto the Exumas.

Yesterday, we left Miami Beach and enjoyed a beautiful sail in Biscayne Bay, averaging 4-5 knots on a beam reach. Then we anchored off Key Biscayne, which was packed with jet skies, mega yachts, and everything in between. We hung out at a nearby sandbar while different musical genres blasted us from every direction. After some Miami fun, we retired to Traveller and submitted the application and $300 fee for the 3-month cruising permit we will present to Bahamas Customs upon check-in at Great Harbour Cay. We also established profiles on CBP's ROAM app, which will enable us to obtain clearance for re-entry to the U.S. without undergoing an in-person inspection. Now it's time to finalize the game plan for tomorrow and complete last-minute preparations for the overnight passage (top off fuel and water, make meals to eat underway, etc.). Keep an eye out for our next post from the Bahamas!